Failing Miserably

I have all but abandoned my blog for this trip. Partly, I have been sick, and haven't felt like sitting down for long periods of time to journal, and partly because Chris is completely showing me up in the blog department. So, if you want to keep track of our wanderings (at least for this trip), check out his blog at blogabond.com/pagett. He updates his very regularily, and posts far more pictures than I do. Love you all!

Flamingos, Flexibility, and Finally, Palenque

On one of our last days in Mèrida (Chris' birthday), we decided to do a tour to Celestùn, an eco-reserve about 2 hours away from the city on the Gulf of Mexico. We caught a bus only to wait nearly 30 minutes at the Hyatt for three people who decided that it was okay to make a bus full of people wait for them. After all, they were staying at the Hyatt, and not some $10 a night hostel! Not a great start to the tour, but it did get better. In Celestùn we got in a boat and toured the mangrove swamp, eventually coming upon thousands on thousands of bright pink flamingos. Did you know flamingos are pink because they eat so much shrimp? Would I turn florescent if I ate all that shrimp? Good thing I don't even like shrimp. No chance of that happening. Although I do eat a lot of avacado here...maybe I'll cut back...I don't think that colour green really suites me.

The following day was my birthday, and we decided to take it easy and just relax, catching up on emails and wandering around. That evening was another Carnaval parade, this one more traditional, with dancing and Mexican costumes (but still a lot of semi-naked girls on beer floats!). We walked to where the parade started, and had a delicious birthday dinner of salbutes and sopa de lima. A salbute is the Yucatan version of a taco. It's this small fried tortilla covered with onion, tomato, lettuce and pulled turkey, topped with avocados. It's divine. Lime soup is another Mexican favorite. It kind of tastes like savory Froot Loops, especially with the tortillas in it. Yummy!! My very favorite thing is guacamole. I eat it nearly everyday. The avocados are so fresh and flavourful (not like the ones you get at Safeway...), and they mix it with chilis and lime and salt, and serve it with freshly fried tortilla pieces. Gorgeous.

Yesterday was a bit of an adventure. Chris and I got up and made our way to the bus station to catch a bus to Palenque, an ancient Mayan civilization approximately 10 hours from Mèrida. It was not a day we were looking forward to (a long, hot bus ride is never a good time), but we had been mentally preparing ourselves for days. We got there to find that the morning bus left an hour before, but there was another bus at midnight! Oh good news!! I could have cried. I was more than tired of Mèrida, and wanted to get this show on the road, and see another part of Mexico. We sat in the corner of the bus station and deliberated our options. We could put our bags in storage and bum around Mèrida until midnight, and take a night bus to Palenque. We could find somewhere else to go instead. We could find a hostel and catch tomorrow morning`s bus, wasting another day. I was disappointed, I didn't want to stay in Mèrida, and I wanted to visit the ruins of Palenque the following day. But the main thing was to get the heck out of Merida. We`d been there for days! So, we looked at the bus times, looked in our Lonely Planet book, and decided to head to Campeche, a coastal city a little less than halfway between the two. What a great decision!! Campeche is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is famous for their pirates! It was also practically deserted. Seriously, we arrived at around 1pm, and immediately headed for the historical center. The only people we saw on the streets were policemen. It was bizarre. However, we wandered around, hitting a few churches, a few parks, and the malecon (boardwalk). Each building was painted a different colour, making each street into a rainbow. And, as mentioned before, we had the city to ourselves! Later that night, we were able to catch a bus to Palenque, arriving at around 4am. A very good day indeed.

Carnaval

It has been an eventful week.

Day Three in Mexico, I woke up with a terrible chest cough, but no other symptoms of illness otherwise. I decided to ignore it, and Chris and I rented a scooter and scooted around Isla Mujeres. It's a small island, so we went around twice. It was an amazing way to spend the day, speeding along the tropical coastline, the calm turquoise waters of the Caribbean on one side in direct contrast to the blue crashing waves from the Gulf of Mexico on the other. We zipped down to the southern tip of the island, where there was a "playground memorial" dedicated to the Mayan Goddess Ixchel (very touristy, not worth the $3 to get in). Instead, we climbed the lighthouse, which gave us an enchanting view of the whole island. Later that day, we snuck onto a private resort on the Caribbean side to try snorkling. However, the water was cloudy and kind of gross, so we left, priding ourselves on not getting duped into paying hundreds more dollars for a "beachfront resort." Our hostel, at less than $25 a night, was right on it's own beach, and only 2 blocks away from the best beach in town!

Day Four, we went back to Cancún to catch a bus to Mérida, a city "4 to 6 hours from Cancún." I put that in quotation marks, because in actuality, the trip took us more than 7 long and painful hours. And that nasty cough from the morning before? It got worse. My chest hurt, my eyes felt like they were going to pop out of my head everytime I coughed (and I coughed...a lot!), and my skin was painful to touch. I'm sure I was a delightful companion for Chris, who was incredibly patient and understanding.

Day Five, Chris MADE me go to the doctor. It hadn't even crossed my mind, having been sick so many times while traveling, I usually just ride it out. However, it's a good thing I went; I had a fever and a bad bronchial infection in my chest that required antibiotics. I spent all of that day in bed. The one time I ventured out on my own, I got disoriented and lost after walking only a few blocks. Chris went out exploring on his own, and had a few adventures himself! Ah, I remember the flustery, blustery feeling of not knowing how to communicate! He did, however, weed out the city, and discovered a few cool things to do.

Day Six, we came across hordes of people lined up in the streets. Thousands upon thousands. As I've mentioned before, some of my greatest experiences while traveling have been had when I just followed a crowd, with no idea of what was going on. This was no exception. We had discovered the biggest Carnaval parade this country offers! HUGE floats paraded by designed by Coca-Cola and Corona, with coloured lights and scantily clad women gyrating their hips. Feathered headpieces with matching feathered dresses danced and twirled. Bands played, men sang, children shook their...bon-bons?? Yeah, that was a little disturbing. But all in the spirit of Carnaval, I guess. Afterwards, the crowds moved to a different area of town, where there were three main stages, all within a few blocks of each other. One was blasting regaeton and featured a dance competition, another had a Mexican cowboy singing his heart out, and the third headlined a salsa band with a complete horn section. It was pretty amazing.

I am on the mend now. It's a little frustrating to be coughing so much, but I feel tons better, thanks to the miracle of antibiotics. Tomorrow we are heading to the Mayan ruins of Palenque, in the south of Mexico. A nine hour bus ride. Can't wait.

Island of Women

Hey All,

We have arrived!! After leaving Cranbrook at 10am yesterday (overnight in Calgary and their -20 weather), we are safe and sound in Mexico. Turns out Chris and I are a super team of awesomeness. I don't know if it was blind luck or Jesus or our own wits, but we seemed to make each connection exactly on time (arriving just as the plane/bus/boat was just about to leave). We left Cancun as soon as we arrived...if you're not staying at an all-inclusive, it kind of sucks...and jumped a boat to Isla Mujeres (Island of Women), where we will be soaking up the Caribbean sun for the next three or four days. Anyway, I will make this short, since people are waiting for the computer. Will post any adventures we have in the coming days!

Always,

Emily

One week!

I'm so excited I think I'm gonna barf!

I packed my bag a few days ago, then realized how nerdy that was, so I unpacked it again and shoved my backpack under my bed.

New Adventure

Well, it's been months since I have even thought about this blog, but today I decided to take it out and dust it off in time for my newest adventure. This trip is the result of a little spontaneity, a lot of stress, and a few birthdays on the horizon. Initially, I was planning to head to Korea, to teach English for a year. However, it just didn't feel right (at least, not right now), and after a lot of soul searching and some sleepless nights, I figured out what a lot of my loved ones had realized ages ago...I wasn't going to go to Korea. Then, my boyfriend asked me what I thought about traveling in Mexico for a few months, and an alternative adventure was born!

This journey is more of a tourist trip, with more lazing on the beach and R&R than I'm used to. I'm revisiting a much loved part of my past, Central America! Tickets are bought and paid for, and this time, I will get a chance to travel in Mexico (which TECHNICALLY isn't part of CA, but should be, for heavens sake!). I will also get a chance to see mi Familia Guatemalteco in Santiago Atitlan, Guatemala, which I am immensely excited about.

We arrive in Cancun on February 16th, and as far as I know, we don't have any particular plan of what to do after that. I do know we plan to be back in Mexico by March 20th, for the Spring Equinox. In between, who knows!? It's Chris' birthday on the 22nd, and mine on the 23rd (don't forget!!), so I'm hoping we get to someplace warm and tropical with yummy drinks by then.

I'm not really a "foodie," but I'm looking forward to eating Mexican everyday. Maybe it's because the few places I've already traveled have...lacked...a little in the culinary department. Maybe it's because I love tacos and tamales and enchiladas and quesadillas. But everytime I think about going, I also think about eating. And then my mouth waters.

This is the least thought out trip I've ever been on, which is both fun and scary! I know I'm a stressful traveler (love to travel, but it sometimes scares the crap outta me!), but it's a lot easier to let things slide when you've got someone with you. I have realized that when things go wrong and you're alone, your first instinct is to sit down and have a little cry, or maybe a temper tantrum. But when there's someone else to share in your distress, you can't help but laugh about it. Like they say, misery loves company! And I guess it's nice to have company for the good times, too...Especially company as enjoyable as Chris'!

Top Threes of Ecuador

Things I ate
1. Fresh fruits and fruit juice EVERYDAY
2. spinach ravioli with carbonara from Clasico
3. Cuy (roasted guinea pig)

Things that bothered me
1. They put cilantro in everything!
2. Machismo
3. Pollution and "The Cuenca Cough"

Thoughts about my students
1. Everyone had a cell phone
2. The nice boys are going to grow up to become disgusting men
3. Good looking kids

Interesting people I met
1. Big Renee - May have been a lesbian, may have been a man, scary laugh...such a character!
2. Martin - has been all over the world, was left for dead in the Australian outback and had to survive on his own urine.
3. Sunny - the only American I met who knew where Cranbrook was!

Places I went
1. Vilcabamba, the Valley of Longevity, nestled in the Andean range
2. Canoa, a surf town with water as warm as a bath
3. Banos, the adventure capital of Ecuador

Things I want to remember
1. The look on Dad's face when the horse spooked
2. The taste of fresh maracuyas
3. The giant turtles on the Galapagos

Things I want to forget
1. Food poisoning
2. The rage I feel whenever a man is inappropriate
3. The hell of my first semester

People I'll miss
1. The Canadians
2. My roommate, Kristi
3. The guy at Clasico

Things I'll miss
1. The fruit and veggie market
2. The shy smiles of children
3. Rio Tomebamba

Cultural quirks
1. There's chauvinism without chivalry
2. Everyone litters and doesn't think it contributes to pollution
3. It's okay to call someone fat, or ask them embarrassing questions about their love life, but it's not okay to want to have personal space

Reasons it's good to be back
1. Hot water, hot water, hot scalding water
2. You can put TP in the toilet!
3. Hanging out with family and friends again

Homeward Bound

Today is my last day in Ecuador. It is a bittersweet goodbye, because I am really looking forward to seeing all my friends back home, but I am sad to leave this country I have grown to love. It`s been a long journey towards loving Ecuador, which I think makes it harder to leave. I`ve just gotten the hang of things!

I spent yesterday in Otavalo, an indiginous market town in the north of Ecuador, buying last minute gifts and souvenirs. The market is the cheapest I`ve come across in my travels through Latin America, and I went on a good day, because it wasn`t very busy. On market days, the place spreads out four blocks in every direction, but on other days, there is a smaller market in the center of town. It was pretty great to make it up to Otavalo, since I wasn`t planning on going, despite everyone`s insistance that it was not to be missed.

It was a long trip back from Peru, where I left my parents to return to Ecuador for my last days. My first flight was canceled, and the second flight was delayed for hours, so I didn`t arrive in Quito until nearly 11pm, after leaving my hotel in the morning at 6:30am. That`s how long my flight to Vancouver is going to take!!

Machu Picchu was absolutely amazing. We got up early so that we could see the sun rise over the ruins, and had a very stunning view of the Lost City of the Incas until the clouds drifted in and covered it in a mystical mist. As we climbed the thousands of stairs (literally) up and down and around the ruins, we couldn`t help but think about the people who lived there long ago. Apparently the word "Inca" means "King" and the everyday people who the Incans ruled were called Kichwa (sometimes written "Quechua"). The Kichwa people still live in the Andes, from Columbia to Chile, and are famous for their knowledge of flora and fauna, their weaving and their pottery. The largest population of the Kichwa still live in Peru, and are very proud of their heritage. It makes me think about the indiginous Canadians, who have lost huge portions of their culture because of colonialism. A lot of parts of Latin America are similar, but Peru is unique in how much they have preserved of their culture.

Anyhow, here I am, heading home tomorrow morning. I`m not sure how I feel about it, although I am excited to be embarking on a new adventure.

If I could do it all again...

Coming into the Valley of Longevity, is like entering into a painting. The mountains are as green and picturesque as any imagination could conjure up, and the quaint little town of Vilcabamba, tucked in amoung the giant rolling hills, looks as if it were plucked out of a storybook. I love it here. I have been looking forward to returning since I first visited the south of Ecuador at Christmastime. It was one of the first things on my list of places to go when my parents decided to come and visit me, and I`m glad it will be one of the last in my memory before I head back home.

The weather has been pretty much perfect since my parents arrived in Ecuador, ten days ago. After complaining about months and months of rain, the beautiful sunshininess has been embraced by me, and by my parents, who left a blizzard behind in Canada. Our first adventure was to the Galapagos, another second for me. I realize that most people don´t even get to go to the Galapagos once, and here I am, going a second time!! I do know how lucky I am, and I enjoyed it almost as much the second time. There was so much I wanted to share with my parents, and I think that both my parents were as delighted with the turtles and sea lions as I was. We snorkled, hiked, and sailed, and saw many of the animals I witnessed the first time around.

From the Galapagos, we headed to Guayaquil, the largest city in Ecuador, and one of the most important ports in South America. There we walked along the Malecon 2000, a newly renovated boardwalk, with seaside eateries and colourful buildings. After hearing so much negativity about the dangers of Guayaquil, and having seen firsthand the poverty and pollution from the bus windows, I was pleasantly surprised to see another, unexpected side. We head back to Guayaquil tonight, our last stop before heading down into Peru.

However, that now brings us to the Sacred Valley of Vilcabamba, where many of the inhabitants are over 100 years old, and the energy is so relaxing and friendly, I`m sort of sad to leave. Yesterday, the parents and I went on a three and a half hour horse trek through the mountains, and it was amazing. I`m very proud of my parents for submitting themselves to it, though I know it couldn´t have been the most comfortable way to see the beauty of the Andes. I do think they both enjoyed themselves, and it is the best way to see the mountains in a short time.

I`m very excited about our next adventure, into Peru and to the ruins of Maccu Picchu, pretty much the only part of the trip so far that I haven`t previously done. And then, in less than two weeks, I`m heading back to Canadian soil. I`m not quite sure how I feel about that, but I`m looking at it as another opportunity to grow and figure out what the heck I`m doing on this great Earth.

The Not So Adventurous Amazon

Dreams of river rafting and jungle tours led me to Tena, a large town in the Ecuadorian Amazon rainforest. However, adventures have eluded me in the four days I have spent here. The first day, I went for a walk around this little island that separates the rivers Tena and Puno. It was very beautiful, with the average leaf being larger than my head! There were monkeys and birds and even an ostrich?! Not quite sure what it was doing there, but it made me giggle a little bit. At one point, as I was watching a small monkey flip and play, I noticed a rather LARGE monkey walking towards me on the trail. Everytime I turned to look at it, it would stop walking and pretend to be interested in a leave or a stick or whatever happened to be around. But as soon as my back was turned, it would start stalking me again. It sort of freaked me out a bit, since the exit was back BEHIND the monkey, and I was walking deeper into the jungle to get away. Everytime I turned around for the next half an hour, there was the monkey, getting closer and closer. I wasn´t sure what to do. I was pretty sure beating a monkey in a national park with a stick would be frowned upon, and possibly get me arrested. Thankfully, a family coming the opposite direction distracted the monkey long enough for me to duck off the trail and make my way around it!

That is about the only exciting thing that´s happened to me thus far in the jungle. My name has been on a few whitewater rafting lists, but as it is a weekday and not peak tourist season, apparently I´m the only one in town interested in a trip. So, for the past 4 days, I´ve walked around Tena, which is hotter than Hades, and tried to get myself on a boat. However, I´ve now given up. I decided it´s not meant to be. I´m heading back up to Quito tomorrow morning in preparation for my parent´s visit.

A few last thoughts about the jungle: The rain is absolutely incredible. Everyday I´ve been here, it´s rained for a few hours in the afternoon. Insane rain. Torrential doesn´t even begin to describe it. But it´s one of the most beautiful things I´ve ever seen, with the wind blowing the trees in half, the lightning and sunshine combination...it´s like those shots of hurricane rain they show on the news, except it´s not killing anybody. Amazing. Also, I`ve realized that I`m just not a jungle person. While I appreciate the beauty (words can`t describe how amazing it is!!) and the million different colours of green and the animals, I don`t like to be knee deep in the nitty gritty. I don`t like the bugs, the humidity, or the possibility of a snake falling out of a tree onto my head. Or under my foot. Or in any vicinity of my body. Let`s just say I`m not a fan of snakes anywhere. *Shudder*

Anyhoo, in a few days time, I will be back in the Galapagos. It´s okay to be jealous.

The Wheels on the Bus

I have spent a LOT of time on buses these past few months, traveling around Ecuador, into Peru, and even just around town. I now know that Ejectivo buses are the best, because they USUALLY have air conditioning, and don´t stop every ten feet to pick up new passengers. Also, nearly every long distance bus I´ve been on will show a Jean Claude Van Damme movie. The last bus ride I took, from Bahía de Caraquez to Guayaquil (7 hours), showed THREE Jean Claude Van Damme movies. In a row. In Spanish. Now, I´m not saying I´m an expert on acting or plausibility or anything of the sort, but I just don´t get how a loving father and husband just HAPPENS to have a loaded AK47 under the drivers seat of a mini-van, or how a white guy with no weapon can fend off a whole gang of kung fu mafia with machine guns. Maybe if the movies were in English, I would have understood. Or, maybe if I had a penis.

Anyhoo, I digress. All of the buses in Ecuador are retired USA/Canada buses, although some of them are still pretty recent models. However, some are most definitely not. My favorite are the ones where the drivers seat is basically a metal lawn chair bolted to the floor of the bus. These are the buses where my imagination gets the better of me, and I envision my cartoon self riding in the most rickety, ancient bus possible, careening around hairpin turns on the edges of cliffs on the wrong side of the road (actually, that sounds about right for reality...). At any rate, as we´re going, I´m imagining nuts and bolts flying off willy-nilly, so that once we reach our destination, all that is left is an empty shell of a bus, and upon stopping the front and sides of the bus flop over like a card tower, where all the people in the bus are sitting, hair on end, completely and totally shell shocked.

As well, nearly every bus has a dashboard shrine, some big, some small, to Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary. Possibly this is the reason they feel safe enough to drive pedal to the metal, and pass on double solids. Also, most have a pom pom ceiling runner across the windshield, which does more to impede vision than it does to add to the decor.

Generally, I´ve noticed that people don´t bathe or brush their teeth before getting on a bus. The odor on some of the long distance buses have ranged from unwashed to fetid, and I´ve had the pleasure of sitting next to them many times. I guess people don´t think about polite hygiene here, or make it as much of a priority as we do in Canada. Although, to be fair, I´ve sat by my fair share of stinkers in Victoria, as well.

Even though I´ve made it sound like riding the bus is not a great experience, I´ve found most of my rides pleasant and comfortable enough. It´s maybe not my ideal way of traveling, but it´s a great way to see the country in which I live, and for that, I wouldn´t trade it for anything.

From South to North

I`ve been traveling up the coast of Ecuador with some teaching friends for the past week and a half. It`s been the most amazing experience, and such a great time. We started in Montañita, a popular surf town about 8 hours from Cuenca, and the first main stop on the southern coast. And, if you are a faithful blog reader, it`s the same place I went for my first school break, where I got that strange rash/spots all over my face. Good thing it didn`t happen again!! We arrived just in time for one of the biggest parties of the year, Semana Santa (Holy Week, aka: Easter Weekend). Music blared non-stop for 48 hours, including at 7am. Unfortunately, neither I, nor my fellow traveling friends were in the mood for partying, and so the music was more annoying than fun. However, the weather was great, our hostel was clean (but smelly...what the heck is with us and smelly places?!), and the waves were awesome. I got slightly sunburnt on the last days, but overall it was a great start to our Ecuador adventure traveling.

Next, we caught a bus to Ayampe, an hour north of Montañita. It`s basically two hostels and ten houses, barely even a spot on the map. However, it was PARADISE. We stayed with this family, Galbon, his wife, and his five year old son. Galbon is an amazing cook, although he was away for most of our stay, which was a little disappointing, although the food was still incredible. Our days consisted of eating, swimming, suntanning and reading in the hammocks. It was a phenominal way to recharge our batteries, after teaching annoying rich kids for the past six months!

Finally, we had a big day of travel (broke my daily transportation record, and traveled in 5 buses and a boat!) and arrived in Canoa, another 8 hours north of Ayampe, and yet another chillaxed surf town, just in time for another party weekend. We learned to surf, boogie and body board, and spent even more time in the sun and the sand. Canoa is awesome in it`s own way, less touristy and busy than Montañita, but still Gringolandia and fun. We spent our time in two relaxed hostels, The Bambù, and CocoLoco, both right on the beach, and met up with some cool fellow travelers.

Yesterday, my school friends left for Quito, and tomorrow, I`m heading back to Cuenca, for my second to last leg of Ecuadorian travel. Although I could definitely spend more time on the beach, I think I`m filled up enough to be content with what I`ve had. I am tired of the constant bugs (soooo itchy!!), and the feet that are never clean. And the beach isn`t as fun when you don`t have cool people to enjoy it with.

I can`t believe I only have a month left!!

Speeding down the Streets of Cuenca

There`s this statue in Parque de la Madre that never fails to cheer me up. It is the most disproportionate statue of a human being I have ever seen, of a man with a giant butt, tiny thin legs, huge head and nose, and anorexic arms. It`s supposed to be of Jefferson Perez, a man from Cuenca, who won an Olympic Gold for speedwalking (did you know speedwalking was an Olympic event?! I didn´t!!). At any rate, they`ve erected a statue in his honour, and although I`ve never actually seen Jefferson Perez in person, I`m guessing it`s not an exact likeness, since there`s no way a guy of the statue`s proportions would EVER be able to walk around a track even one time...his legs wouldn`t be able to support his ass, and even if they could, his neck and chest would NEVER be able to hold up his giant head for more than a few hundred meters!!

I think as a result of the Olympic medal, speedwalking is a HUGE sport here in Ecuador. At any time of the day, I have to dodge serious speedwalkers pacing their way around Parque de la Madre on my way to the Millenium Plaza or SuperMaxi. Their concentration is total, and they would sooner bowl me over than lose even a few seconds off their time to go around me. They also take their speedwalking VERY seriously, and it is a sin to joke about it. One time, some friends and I decided to have a speedwalk race through Parque de la Madre, and we got more than a few disgusted looks at our pathetic attempts to imitate their swinging hips and arms. However, I learned that speedwalking is not an easy feat. It takes training and coaches and is not for the faint of heart! There is usually a team of speedwalkers training in the park in the afternoons with coaches and whistles and lines. You don`t get whistles for just anything!

Except apparently, anyone can get a whistle. There are guys who guard the cars on the streets at night. We call them "The Whistle Men." They are paid by the neighborhood and the car-owners to patrol the streets with their batons and whistles, to keep them safe from...harm? Mostly, the men look like socially inept drunkards who couldn`t hold down a job where it is essential to have people skills. And they blow their whistles for no reason, all through the night. I`ve been walking down the street at midnight, or 1am, and have seen a whistle man blow his whistle at a plastic bag. Or at nothing. They just blow them. For fun. I`ve also seen them urinate on the cars, but that`s a different story.

Anyways, I am leaving Cuenca tomorrow for the beach. I finished teaching last Thursday, and due to a bout of food poisoning, a stolen camera, and traveling companions who came down with a butt cyst and mono respectively, my travel plans to the jungle have been put on hold until April. Hopefully it`s not raining on the coast, but even if it is, it will be much warmer than here.

I gotta go. I`m sneezing up a storm.

Creepy Crawlies

It`s been raining here in Cuenca for many months. Although the sun is making more of an appearance these past few weeks, and the rain isn`t QUITE as ferocious as last month, it still rains everyday for at least an hour.

One thing I`ve noticed lately is that many disgusting and gigantic bugs have been sighted down by River Tomebamba, AND climbing up The Escalinata (stairs, at the top of which I live). Though a lot of them are getting killed during their pilgrimage up the stairs, a whole lot more are now crawling around where PEOPLE ACTUALLY LIVE! Ick. When I first got to Cuenca in September, there were no bugs to be seen. It`s a city. I would see the occassional cockroach or fly, but bugs of the scary giant variety were non-existant. Now though, I frequently have to cross into the street because huge-ass beetles the size of my HAND are sitting pretty in front of my door, or a tarantula is trying to hail a cab. The moths here are the size of BATS. I didn`t believe it until I saw it with my own eyes. In fact, I once made fun of a friend for an entire month who was traumatized by a moth in his bathroom. Little did I know he was NOT exaggerating the size of the buggers, until I got caught in the bathroom with a moth/bat myself, unable to get out in time.

I never thought of myself as scared of bugs. Granted, I`d rather not have them crawling all over me, but in the past, I was the one who was brave enough to kill a spider on the wall or trap the cockroach that got in. But these ones, they`re HUGE. Monsterous. Dinosaur-like. The thought of one of THEM creeping along my neck or up my leg is enough to give me the heebie-jeebs for a week.

Mom, send bug spray.

Breaking News

I`m not sure how much of what is going on in Columbia is getting to the Canadian newspapers, but the shit is in the process of hitting the fan here in South America.

Apparently, some members of Columbia´s largest rebel group, FARC, was seeking asylum across the border in Ecuador, when the Columbian army raided Ecuador and killed 17 guerrilla fighters, as well as their head honcho, Raúl Reyes, this Saturday. Reyes was wanted by Interpol for crimes against humanity, and FARC is a notorious terrorist group.

The result of the military attack on Ecuadorian soil has resulted in some very hot heads, and threats of war between Columbia and Ecuador, along with Venezuela (Ecuador`s leftist ally). The border between Ecuador and Columbia has been closed, and Rafael Correa (the President of Ecuador) has announced that he was intent on severing all diplomatic ties between Ecuador and Columbia. Military troops are being sent to the border, and military presence in and around Ecuador is more evident since the attack over the weekend.

Columbia is accusing Ecuador of getting involved and supporting FARC, while Ecuador denies any untoward behaviour. Because Ecuador and Venezuela have leftist leanings, the American government is quick to side with Columbia in this dispute. If, in fact, the three countries go to war, Columbia is certain to have the US backing it.

Hopefully, things will cool down before it gets too out of control. Keep watching the news, and pray for a non-violent resolution.

Drowning in Cuenca

It`s been raining for a week. And I`m not talking about just a little rain. I`m talking rivers flooding, mudslides over highways, eternally wet clothing rain. The kind where sometimes you have to put your hand over your mouth so you can take a breath. The kind that after the first five minutes, the water on the street is coming up over your shoes. My one pair of jeans are so constantly wet, they`ve started to mold. I`ve started wearing flip flops because all of my shoes are squelchy and my socks are soaked within seconds of putting on shoes. The wooden front door has sopped up so much water, it has swollen shut, and I have a minor panic attack/spaz everytime I try to get in or out (can anyone say "fire hazard"?). And I`m oh so tired of it!!

The thing about living on the equator is that sometimes the rainy season comes multiple times in a year (I think global warming also has a hand in it as well...). So, even though I arrived in Cuenca in September to rain everyday for a month, that wasn`t enough for Ecuador. The torrential downpours apparently will continue on for the next few weeks.

Can`t wait.

A vacation from a vacation

This past weekend was Carnival in Ecuador, which, as previously mentioned, is a country-wide water fight. Desperate to avoid it, some friends and I decided to get out of the country entirely, and try our hand at Peru. We climbed on a bus on Friday morning, and made our way to the border town, Huaquillas, 5 hours south. Climbing off the bus was like entering a different world. We were instantly hot and sticky, and in what I could only imagine was a market in China. And although the people looked and spoke Spanish, I was convinced that it was China, none-the-less. There were fruits and vegetables everywhere, people pushing ox-carts piled high with fish and oranges and clothing, and men riding bikes with carts attached. Taxis and tuk-tuks were everywhere, and the rules of the road were apparently non-existent. It was chaos.

We were under strict instructions not to talk to ANYBODY, because EVERYBODY would try to rob us, yet on all sides, we were mobbed by men trying to get us into their taxis. It was all very overwhelming, since we didn´t even know what direction to walk to get to the border. Finally, we ended up in front of a police station, and decided that perhaps we could trust them, and we ended up getting into two tuk-tuks the policeman recommended. The guy seemed trustworthy enough, and took us to the Peruvian border, 4 kms away. We all piled out, and immediately piled back in, after we were told we had to go to the Ecuadorian border to get our exit stamps. So, back through the market, back through a parade of water balloons and shaving cream, back to where we started, into another cab, to the Ecuadorian border, 10 km away. This border was just a shack on the side of the road. I wonder how we could´ve missed it?? Anyhow, armed with our exit stamps, we made our way BACK to the border of Peru, through all the muss and mess of Huaquillas, and were FINALLY allowed into Peru, after an hour and a half of mass confusion.

We arrived in Mancora, a beach town in the north of Peru, at around 8pm, 11 hours after we started our journey (we were told it would take us 7-9 hours...). We found a hostel, found some much needed food, and I went to bed while the others went to find the nightlife in Mancora. The next day, we got up, and spent the day on the beach. And the next day. And the next day. It was amazing. The water was warm, the sun was hot, and vendors would walk along the beach, calling out their wares, so you didn´t even have to get up to get water or food. In the evenings, we would walk along the market stalls, admiring the jewelery, sarongs, books, and clothing, before we ate dinner and went out dancing. The best part was, I didn´t get involuntarily wet the whole weekend!! I love Peru! Ooh, and the other best part was the four gorgeous women I was with, they made the trip so much fun, we all got along splendidly, and had some amazing and at times vulgar conversations. Good times.

The ride home was a lot more productive, since we knew what we were doing, although we did end up in a deserted parking lot with three sketchy men (they wanted money to sneak us across the border...don´t ask!). However, not two minutes after getting my passport stamped in Ecuador, I got hit by a water balloon!! Stupid Carnival....

I wish I packed a super soaker...

In Ecuador, the people celebrate Carnival by throwing water balloons and buckets of water at each other. And although Carnival isn´t technically until February 3rd, most people think that starting right after New Years is a good idea. Thus far, I have been hit with five water balloons, and aimed at countless times. It is a war zone here in Cuenca, and as a gringa, I am a worthy target. I have to be on constant lookout, because the balloons can come from anywhere. People stand on rooftops and balconies and pelt passerbys, or children hide behind doorways, or teens ride around in cars, chucking them out windows. Let me tell you how wonderful it is to get hit in the face or the stomach by a balloon thrown from a car going 50 km. I have bruises. Also, it´s less than ideal to arrive at work to teach 15 teenagers, shirt soaked and clingy (even worse if you got hit in the nether-regions...). I´ve heard horror stories of getting hit in the back of the head with a frozen water balloon, or pelted by 15 balloons at once.

Apparently it´s only going to get worse.

Braving Baños

There is a volcano in Ecuador that is threatening to erupt any day now. Most of the neighboring villages have been evacuated, and the others are on high alert. So what does a group of adventure-seeking gringos do? They get on the first bus headed for Baños, one of the villages closest to the volcano that has not been evacuated, for a front row seat.

There is much to do in Baños. From river rafting to horse back riding to canyoning to sitting in the thermal baths, there`s something for everyone. We arrived at 7am, after taking a night bus from Cuenca, ready to pack in all there was to do. But first, we slept.

The first day, Kristi and Bryann took off on ATVs to discover the countryside, while Vince and I decided to spend a few hours in the thermal baths, before heading up to check out the zoo. It was pretty relaxing, although a dirty affair, since ash spewing from the active volcano seemed to cover everything, including us. The zoo was all animals from Ecuador, like the leopard, the capybara (world`s largest rodent, or ROUS, if you want to go that route!), the Galapagos Turtle, and many many birds. My favorite were the parrots who said, "Hola, Como estas?" and then proceded to laugh in a freakily accurate immitation of a woman. It was bizarre. Unfortunately (FORTUNATELY) the serpent zoo was closed.

The next day, we rented bikes and biked 16 km to Rio Verde, where we made many stops along the way. First, we watched Kristi and Bryann jump off a bridge, bungee-style, then we took a rickety cable car to a waterfall. We rode through tunnels and along cliffs, until finally we got off to hike down to this amazing waterfall, where there was a outdoor restaurant, overlooking the vista. To get there, we had to cross a suspension bridge, which warned that there could be no more than five people on the bridge at once. Not very reassuring! As we were exhausted by this time (there may have been tiny hangovers involved from the previous night...), we chucked our bikes in the back of a truck and got a ride back to Baños, just in time for a dip in the baths, a meal, and an excursion to see the volcano up close. Unfortunately, it was raining and overcast, so there wasn`t much to see, and it was freezing, but the four of us were crammed in with a busload of Ecuadorians who were chanting "Canelazo!" (an Ecuadorian alcoholic drink), and singing their heads off to the spanish pop music that is incessently playing everywhere you go. Although it was raining, and we couldn`t see the volcano, it was a pretty decent night.

On Sunday, we decided to go canyoning, which is basically harnessing yourself up and rapelling down waterfalls. We climbed down three waterfalls, wearing wetsuits and helmets. The first two were good practise for the motherload. Basically we climbed down about ten feet, and then hung in our harnesses, zipping down at our leisure for the last 50 feet, under the waterfall. It was amazing and terrifying.

If that wasn`t enough, when we got back, we decided it would be a good idea to go back to the bungee bridge and all try jumping off it. It was the freakiest sensation, as you`re standing up on that bridge, looking death in the face and saying, yup, I`m gonna jump. Against everything my brain and body are telling me, I`m going to jump. And although it took me a few times to work up the nerve, I did it. And it was horrible and amazing and scary and awesome. There`s an instant between when you jump and when the rope tightens when you are freefalling basically towards your death, and all sorts of thoughts go through your mind. The biggest one for me was, "What the hell did you just do?!" Anyhow, once we all did it, apparently we got a free jump, or a doubles jump off the smaller bridge (yeah, why did I do the bigger bridge first? I dunno, I`m an idiot?!), so Vince and I braved it a second time and jumped off together, which wasn`t nearly as bad as the first one. We conquered our fears and now can laugh about it. Holy cow.

PS -- The volcano didn`t blow it`s top by the time we left on Sunday evening. I`m not sure if I`m disappointed or relieved.

Feliz Año!!

I came back from Vilcabamba just in time for New Years. The bus ride from Loja to Cuenca was slowed down by many obstructions in the road, in the form of small children in various costumes (the Grim Reaper, Spiderman, army men, skeletons, etc) barricading the road with ropes and bricks and themselves. I didn`t quite understand until we got closer to Cuenca, and lined up on the side of the highway were dummy after dummy, stuffed with newspaper and fireworks, ready to be blown sky high in the name of good fun. It seems that in Ecuador, children dress up in costumes and blow things up.

I got together with my roommate, her boyfriend and a few other teachers, and we walked around Cuenca to see what was going on. Nearly every house had a dummy outside their door, and a lot of neighborhoods and community associations put their resources together to construct elaborate scenes depicting various messages (mostly political). Ten foot high replicas of the president, George Bush, sharks, green men, cars, among other things were on the explosive agenda. There were firecrackers and sparklers for sale, and your mission was to find the greatest scene and place yourself there to watch it`s demise at midnight. At around ten minutes to twelve, all the neighborhood children rushed these sculptures and demolished them, dragging down the dummies, and kicking the hell outta them. Then the adults joined in, getting out all their frustrations from the past year. At midnight, the city went up in flames as each pile was ignited in a huge fireball. I nearly lost my eyebrows, and it looked like a war zone. Except everyone was cheering and kissing each other (I managed to escape, although most of my friends were not so lucky). Though I`m sure it was a terrible blow for the ozone layer, it was a very interesting way to ring in the new year!